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Ogden Cami - Modified // Sewing For Women

Wednesday, July 8, 2020

Ogden Cami - Modified // Sewing For Women

Happy Wednesday!

Today I wanted to talk a little bit about the Ogden Cami I made recently.


I made an Ogden once before (a look HERE), several years ago, and it was never "quite right". It fit okay, but I never reached for it because there were a few things that were just a bit "off".

I had some gaping at the chest, the facing kept creeping up, even though I had understitched, and since I have a broad upper back, I felt like the shape of the back wasn't very flattering on me.

I had raised the front v-neck on my first version, and while I liked a little more coverage there, I wasn't sure if that was the cause of some of my frustration?

Ogden Cami - Modified // Sewing For Women

Moving on to today! I knew I really wanted to make the Ogden again, and try to figure out the issues I'd had with my first one. To be honest, I cut this Ogden out many, many months ago, and only just sewed it! So I'm going off of my pattern pieces to determine all of the tweaks I did to the pattern since I couldn't remember exactly what all I did, and had planned to do! Haha.

Ogden Cami - Modified // Sewing For Women

The first change I made was to go up a size. Since I began working out, my upper body has indeed changed quite a bit and I've gained about 1/2 an inch in my upper bust measurement. I made a size 8. [35.5/36.5/29.5/38]

I raised the front v slightly by cutting along the largest size, instead of the size 8, this raised it by 1/16" more than 1/4". 5/16" to be exact. :)

Ogden Cami - Modified // Sewing For Women

The back was the most significant cosmetic change I made, I raised the back neckline up to be higher than the front and curved it rather than a v, like the original pattern. The center back was raised by 3", I used my curved ruler to help me create a nice curve for the neckline.

Ogden Cami - Modified // Sewing For Women

I also lengthened the front facing by about 2 inches. I say about because it was apparently eyeballed and I didn't write it down on my pattern piece. Doh. It appears I cut it mostly straight across the front and curved it slightly up at the side seam. I didn't lengthen the back facing, but curved the sides down slightly to meet the front facing at the side seams.

Ogden Cami - Modified // Sewing For Women

Despite not giving my future self much information about it, the length works really well and feels much more comfortable to me than the length of the original facing.

Ogden Cami - Modified // Sewing For Women

I widened the straps ever so slightly by taking a 1/4" seam allowance rather than 3/8". It gives just a tiny bit more coverage, and I'm happy with that result as well!

Ogden Cami - Modified // Sewing For Women

I made no fit changes to the body of the tank. Next time (and there will now DEFINITELY be a next time!) I plan to shorten by an inch or two. Since most of my bottoms are pretty high-waisted a shorter cami will be perfect for me!

Ogden Cami - Modified // Sewing For Women

All in all, I am very happy with how this Ogden Cami turned out! I feel like I finally understand what the hype is all about. I'm glad I worked out my minor fit issues. Now I plan to use it for lots of scrap busting!!

Ogden Cami - Modified // Sewing For Women

The fabric is from fabric.com by way of Amazon (my storefront with fabric recs HERE), but no longer available. The piece I used for the cami is a scrap from my Shelby Romper (see HERE). I had to piece the back facing to make it fit and ended up with two left side facing pieces, so half of the facing is showing the wrong side. HA!! But since it was a test of sorts to check the fit, I decided to do it anyway. Now when I look at it, I'm simply reminded of my experimenting, and that IT WORKED! 
😄

Ogden Cami - Modified // Sewing For Women

Thanks for stopping by!  

~Happy Sewing!

Marcel Top // Sewing For Women

Monday, July 6, 2020

Marcel Top // Sewing For Women // Pattern Review
Happy Monday, friends!

I'm so happy to be kicking off the week with this adorable tank!! This is the newest pattern release from Chalk + Notch, and I am absolutely in love!

Marcel Top // Sewing For Women // Pattern Review

The Marcel Dress + Tank Top is the perfect, breezy, swishy, tank and dress I didn't know I needed in my life! I was a tester for this pattern, and made up the tank view.

Marcel Top // Sewing For Women // Pattern Review

One of my favorite details about the pattern is the front and side panels that allow you to play with pattern direction and even some AMAZING print mixing like some of the testers did! (See the tester round-up HERE) The dress views allow for even more fun with the panels as the dress tiers on the way down. Seriously, the swish is DREAMY.

Marcel Top // Sewing For Women // Pattern Review

I plan to sew a dress view for myself before the summer is over, because a tiered sundress is without a doubt a must have!

Marcel Top // Sewing For Women // Pattern Review

The strap placement is perfection straight off the pattern, I did not have to shift or move them at all. Obviously, this is a very personal adjustment to each individual body, but for the most part, it is very close to spot on! And can we just talk about the back view!? Swoon.

Marcel Top // Sewing For Women // Pattern Review

I don't typically reach for this type of silhouette, but for the life of me, don't know why!? I seriously want to fill my closet with this pattern! The tank is so easy to pair with both shorts and pants, and is impossibly cool and comfortable.

Marcel Top // Sewing For Women // Pattern Review

I threw it on one day last week with cut-off shorts when temps soared into the high 90's, with real feels of over 100, and it was absolutely the perfect outfit choice!

Marcel Top // Sewing For Women // Pattern Review

There is a Mini Marcel pattern, as well!! There will be mommy-and-me versions happening in this house, very soon!

I made a size 10 bodice, and cut the center panels a size 8. My upper bust measures a size 10, with the rest a size 8, or between the two. I'm absolutely thrilled with the fit! (Measurements: UB:35.5, B:36.5, W:29.5, H:38)

Marcel Top // Sewing For Women // Pattern Review

My fabric is rayon from Hart's Fabric. (Linked HERE) The textured stripe is everything I love in a drapey fabric, and made the perfect Marcel Tank Top!

Since it is so drapey, and a fairly loose weave, I chose to interface both the main and lining pattern pieces with tricot interfacing, as well as the straps. The pattern instructions suggest to do so with a very drapey fabric, and I think it is the perfect choice. The bodice has structure, but doesn't feel stiff or uncomfortable to wear at all.

Marcel Top // Sewing For Women // Pattern Review

The sewing went very well, the pattern instructions are wonderful, and no really tricky bits! My least favorite part of the sewing is the gathering, haha. But the end result makes it more than worth it!

Marcel Top // Sewing For Women // Pattern Review

Thanks so much for stopping by! If you would like to grab your own copy (you do!), I've linked it again below and both Marcel and Mini Marcel are on sale, now through next Monday July 13th!

LINKS:



Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women

Wednesday, July 1, 2020

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

This post contains *disclosed* affiliate links. All opinions expressed are honest and my own. If you make a purchase using the links, I make a small commission which helps support this blog. So, thank you!!

Hello!! The Seaforth Pants {aff link} pattern by Hey June Handmade is HERE!!

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

When Adrianna divulged her next pattern plans, I knew immediately that no matter what was going on, my calendar was CLEARED and I was available for this test! Haha. I have been dreaming of this exact pattern for years, y'all. Literal years!!

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

Now I know there are plenty of wide leg, elastic waist, pants patterns available out there in both Big 4 companies as well as Indie. But the trouble was, none of them had exactly the details I was hunting for.

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

Not to mention, I would have to muslin all of those patterns that I've found at this point because I'm not familiar with the fit... Hence the major procrastination of me sewing any of them!

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

The Seaforth Pants truly has all of the details that I was looking for! The wide elastic waistband is wider than the ones I've come across. (It's 2 inches, btw) It has patch pockets. (With the COOLEST welt zipper!!) Drawstring option, AND... This is the clincher. Two absolutely perfect views!

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

View A (which is the only option I've had time to sew so far), is a wide leg pant with shaping at the knee.

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

View B, is a jogger with the perfect amount of ease in the leg and ankle. I am DYING to sew a couple pairs of that version as well!

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

The tan version of View A that I made, was a tester version that underwent some tweaking before the pattern was finalized. This pair is a bit wider in the leg than the striped green pair, which was made with the final pattern version.

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

This pair is made with rayon/linen blend from Joann's. I love this fabric for this type of pant! It is definitely substantial enough for pants, and in a light color like this, it's opaque enough that you don't have to worry about anything showing that you don't want to show!

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

The zipper welt pocket feature in this pattern is, like I mentioned before, SO COOL! And don't be afraid of the sewing process either, it's really very simple to do, even though it looks a little bit intimidating.

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

The back pockets are just the right size, and yes, they do hold a phone! A very important detail, I believe. :) I don't know about you, but I am always putting my phone in my back pocket, especially when I'm away from the house.

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

I'll let you in on a little secret... If you don't want or need to have a functional drawstring on your Seaforth Pants, just thread it through the openings (either eyelet or buttonhole) and tie! This saves on the amount of drawstring you need, as well as threading it around the entire waistband!

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

Obviously you can just leave the drawstring off entirely, but I really like the detail it adds.

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

Sometimes I do like having a more adjustable waistband using a functional drawstring, but with 2 inch elastic, I find that I can really get a good fit with the right elastic length, so a drawstring isn't as needed.

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

That being said, I have one more pair of wide-leg Seaforth Pants planned with a couple of small hacks to the pattern, and one of those will include a functional drawstring. :)

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

The green striped pair is also made in a rayon/linen blend, but is lighter weight and more drapey than the tan fabric. This fabric is from Alyssa May Design, and I'm smitten with this shop!! She has some really unique and very cute fabrics I haven't seen much of in other shops, so check her out. (Not affiliated or paid to say this, just sharing a shop I'm loving!)

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

Or don't. ;) More for me!!

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

I made sure to line up the stripes on the pockets so they would blend in well, and used my trusty wonder tape {LINK-Wawak} to help me out.

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

The zippers I used for the pockets are also from Wawak. I went through my stash fabric and basically picked all the fabrics that might work well for this pattern and ordered zips accordingly. Ha. But really, at the super great price that they are, it only made sense for me to stock up to save on shipping as well! And also, these zippers will work great in regular zip flys, so they will not go to waste, even if I don't use the 5 colors I ordered for Seaforth Pants. :)

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

Though the likelihood is that they WILL be used for Seaforth Pants!

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

For size, I made a size 6, graded to an 8 waist. My current measurements are, W:29.5, H:37.75

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

This is an absolutely standard adjustment for me, especially on fitted pants. Since the back of the pants have lovely darts for fitting in that area, grading up at the waist was the perfect fitting adjustment for me.

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

I also shortened the rise 1/2" all around to accommodate my short torso.

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

The first pair I made, I preemptively took out 2 inches in the leg length, but it turned out that wasn't necessary after all. To save the length I had, I drafted a hem facing and attached it with 1/4" seam allowance. They turned out the slightest bit short, but completely wearable.

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

For the second pair, I didn't take out any length, and they are slightly too long. They are definitely wearable, and would be great for wearing with heels! Which I probably will wear at times, because I'm definitely planning to dress this pair up for church! That is once the Covid shut-downs are over.

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

For my perfect length, I will take out about 3/4" in the leg for the next pair, as I plan to wear them with flats mostly.

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

The cami I'm wearing with the tan pair is the Ogden Cami with a few mods. Stay tuned for a more detailed post coming later this week!

Seaforth Pants // Sewing For Women // Hey June Handmade Patterns

The eyelet shirt is a modified Scout Tee, and you can read all the details in THIS POST.

Thanks so much for reading! You can grab the pattern using the link below, and check out all the other gorgeous tester versions on the Hey June Blog!

LINKS:



Shoes - Photo links below (Linked Similar)

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