Leopard Print Union St. Sweater // Sewing For Women

Leopard Print Union St. Sweater // Sewing For Women

Wednesday, October 16, 2019

Hello friends!!

I am in love with my new Hey June pattern-mashup! The Union St Tee is a definite staple pattern in my stash. I love using it to make regular tees of all kinds, but it's so easy to hack as well!! Click HERE to see all the versions I've blogged in the past!

{For a full link list - scroll to the bottom of the post}

Today I'm showing you only one of four Union St. Tees that I have made in the past few weeks. You saw my DIY Ciao Tee on the blog a couple of weeks ago, now here is one of the three versions I hacked/mashed with other Hey June Patterns!

This sweater was of course inspired, #sewrtwstyle, and I was mimicking a J.Crew version. Which is now sold out of course, but not for those of us who sew! 😉

This hack is so simple! I used my size medium tee pattern, crew-neck, long-sleeve options. Then I printed out a size medium hem band and sleeve cuffs from the Halifax Hoodie pattern.

To mash the patterns together, I simply shortened the shirt and sleeve hems to account for the added hem bands.

I would make a couple of small changes next time, one is to keep the sleeves a bit longer. 1 - 1 1/2 inches would be good, since when moving my arms around they tend to creep up on my wrists a bit. I guess I like my sleeves to be a little extra long. 😊

The other thing I would do is to narrow the hem band a little more. I didn't compare the measurements of the hoodie bodice to the tee bodice, and I'm guessing if I would have the tee would be narrower.

I also used a very lightweight rib knit for the hem band, which contributed to it being looser than I would have liked. Yes, I could probably unpick it and resew, but... 😏 If it bothers me enough, I will fix it, don't worry! But for now, I'm okay with it!

I can see, however, if I decide to layer shirts under, that I would like for it to be more fitted. So now, I think I'm talking myself into fixing it! 😆 Stay tuned. Lol.

The fabric I used is from fabric.com {Telio Knit Knack Sweater Knit - affiliate link}. I just absolutely loved the print!! It's so good in person. It has decent stretch and really great recovery. I pre-washed and dried the fabric and it held up great! I've worn it for an entire day and I see no signs of pilling, especially under the arms, where things tend to pill the quickest.

I definitely grabbed enough to make at least one more thing with it, and I can't wait to get it sewn up soon!

The rib knit is from Walmart, and was on one of the 5yds for $5 bolts, so expect to see more of this too! 😃

I think I've covered all the details, but be sure to contact me if you have any more questions!

LINKS:
*Thank you for using my affiliate links! It allows the wheels to keep turning on this blog!*

Patterns:

• Sweater: Hey June Handmade // Union St. Tee and Halifax Hoodie
• Skirt: Itch to Stitch Danube Skirt // *Blogged HERE*

Sweater Fabric:

• Telio Knit Knack Brushed Sweater Knit Animal Print Brown - fabric.com
• This particular fabric is also available in quite a few solid colors as well as a grey version of this print and a gray snake print which I love too!! Click HERE to view them all!
• And if your order is not enough to get you to free shipping and you hate to pay shipping like I do 😉, here it is on Amazon!

Shoes: No longer available, but linked similar options below: *Can we talk about the leopard accent keds??? 😍*

Read more »

Crew Trousers // Sewing For Women

Crew Trousers // Sewing For Women

Thursday, October 10, 2019

Happy Thursday, friends!

I'm so excited to share with you my brand new Crew Trousers!! This is the latest pattern by Chalk & Notch, just released this week. The pattern is on sale through Tuesday, 10/15, no code needed!

The pattern comes in two variations, a tapered trouser length, and a loose fitting short.

Features of the pattern include:

• Front pleats
• Back Darts
• Optional belt-loops and waist tie
• Front Slant Pockets
• Side Lapped Zipper with waistband closure; choose between hook & eye and buttons
• Lengthen and Shorten lines included on the pattern in several places

The instructions for this pattern are exceptional, like we know from all of Gabriela's patterns. Her interactive pdf is great for jumping from section to section if you need to find something specific in the instructions. She has also created a few very helpful videos for some of the trickier steps in the construction, such as the lapped zipper, but I have to say, the written instructions and illustrations are wonderful as well! 

She also has a very helpful fitting post on her blog HERE.

I was privileged to be one of the testers for this pattern, but even if I wasn't testing I would have taken the time to muslin a pattern like this. I'm so, SO glad I muslined it first. 

According to the size chart I am a size 6 hip, and 8 waist. So for my muslin, I graded between the two sizes, and kept the length as is so I could determine exactly how much length I needed to remove.

The muslin fit very well from the beginning. The hips fit well, and the waist fit well, but I discovered I needed a little bit more room in the high hip area just below my waist. I also needed to remove 1/2" of length from the front rise, but not the back. This is typical for me.

I also needed to remove 1 1/2" in length from the legs to get the hem to hit me at the intended length, which is cropped just above the ankle.

I'm so glad I have this data from my muslin, because when I made it up in my fashion fabric, it ended a completely different size! 

I used the most delicious Caramel Silky Viscose/Linen Noil from Imagine Gnats. I purchased this fabric with this exact style of pants in mind, and in the end it is exactly what I was hoping for!

However, this fabric grows exponentially when sewing it into a pair of pants! Even with all of my adjustments to my pattern before cutting, I ended up taking in the hips, and removing a HUGE amount of length from the crotch. It was so low, it was comical. For some reason I didn't take any pictures at that stage, but I really wish I would have!

After these photos, I actually decided to remove another 1/2" from the crotch and I also took in each leg 1/2" through the inseam all the way down to the hem. Like I said, this fabric grew and grew! I even washed them in the washer and dryer just to make sure it wouldn't shrink and that I wasn't removing too much.

Even after removing all of that length from the crotch, the hem still ended up being too long. So rather than cutting off from the bottom of the pant, I decided to hem and then cuff.

Y'all. This is a hack I was planning to make on a future version, but I've gotta say. I'm so happy it worked out with this pair, because it's one of my favorite details!! Next time I will construct it a bit differently, but this is the overall look I was after, and I love it.

But I've gotta say, all of the details on this pair of pants are pretty great!! I mean, just look at that lapped zipper and tiny buttons on the waistband! Swoon.

So as I'm sure you can tell. I'm over the moon about my Crew Trousers. This style of pants is new to me, but I can't wait to wear them all fall! I've got so many ideas of ways I want to style them. And you can't beat the comfort.

You may be asking based on my thoughts above, would you make them again in this fabric? The answer is YES. I'm absolutely thrilled with the outcome. That COLOR. 😍 Next time though, I would definitely size down my pattern before cutting into it. The waistband even turned out a little large, even though I had block fused my interfacing to it before cutting. It just grew. The waist tie helps with keeping it in place, but I would size down at least one size for the whole pattern if I used this fabric again.

I hope these tips are all helpful, and be sure to check out the Chalk & Notch blog for more fitting tips and inspiration!

Pattern & Fabric:

• Crew Shorts and Trousers
• Silky Viscose/Linen Noil

Tank linked here // almost sold out

Outfit links:

Read more »

DIY Anthropologie Inspired Ciao Tee // Sewing For Women

DIY Anthropologie Inspired Ciao Tee // Sewing For Women

Friday, October 4, 2019

Happy Friday, friends!!

I am bursting with some exciting news for you today. First of all, I finished up this adorable Ciao Tee earlier this week, and I get to post about it!

I used the Union St. Tee pattern by Hey June Handmade {aff link}, a linen blend jersey knit from Imagine Gnats, sold out, but there is currently a similar knit in the shop HERE.

I made a size medium for a more oversized fit, shortened the bodice 1 inch, and otherwise sewed as per the pattern. My sweet spot with the Union St Tee is a size small for drapier knits, such as rayon or bamboo spandex jerseys. For knits with less stretch such as this linen blend jersey, or cotton knits with little to no spandex, I prefer to sew a medium and tuck or tie at the waist.

For reference, my measurements are B: 36", W: 29", H: 38". I could probably stand to grade down at the hips in a size medium, and that would eliminate the need to tuck or tie, but I'm a huge fan of that look so I'll probably just keep making them more oversized. 😊

For the letters, I used scraps from another Union St. Tee that I will post about a little later (IT'S SO GOOD). I fused the letters to the tee using EZ-STEAM II {aff link}.

This brings me to the second part of my exciting news. I put together a little video to show you how to stitch around the edges of the letters in a way that won't pull and distort your delicate knits!

You can watch that on my IGTV channel right here in the post, or you can click HERE and watch it on the Instagram app!

View this post on Instagram

Sew with me! I'll walk you through the steps to applique letters onto any tee! Outift Details: Handmade Tee (@heyjunehandmade #unionsttee ) Whole outfit, plus links to RTW items 👇 : #LTKunder50 #LTKstyletip @liketoknow.it http://liketk.it/2FvOH #liketkit Music by: Ikson Official

A post shared by Heidi || Handmade Frenzy (@heidi_handmadefrenzy) on Oct 4, 2019

Bear with me as I'm still learning with these IGTV videos. 😉 I feel quite amateur putting them together, but I'm finding out exactly what info I need to add/record/photograph, etc. So hopefully they will get better with time!

Regardless of all that, I'm super pleased with how my tee turned out! And I can now twin with my good friend, Teri! 😄 Click HERE to see what I mean!

The third and final piece of exciting news is that I now have a LIKEtoKNOW.it page!! This is a place where I can post all of my daily outfits and link to the items I'm wearing for easy shopping for you all, if you are interested!

I get a lot of questions about where I purchase my shoes, accessories, and other items that I wear that are not handmade, so this is a place where I can easily gather all of that information for you!

To view my outfits, you simply need to find my account on LIKEtoKNOW.it (My name is Handmade Frenzy) and click on the pictures for all the info. HERE is the link to my account!

I will still be linking all the info in my blog posts here as well, and it will look a bit more polished as you can see below! Simply click on the little icons to shop.

I'm really excited about this little addition, and I hope you all are too! I cannot express how much it means to me for you to support my blog through these links. Thank you!! 😘

Read more »

Danube Skirt Hack // Sewing For Women

Danube Skirt Hack // Sewing For Women

Wednesday, October 2, 2019

Happy Hump Day friends!

We've made it to the middle of the week! If you're like me you're gasping a little and thinking "already!?!" 😉

Today I wanted to share some details of my Danube Skirt I made recently using denim from Minerva. This fabric was gifted to me, and my style post will be live later on on the Minerva blog, so I'll be sure to share that as well!

I wanted to detail how I hacked the Danube Skirt pattern {aff link} by Itch To Stitch today, since the outcome is quite different than the original pattern. The steps are pretty simple, and I've included pictures I took along the way, but please be sure to reach out via email if you have any questions!

Let's dive in to the tutorial!

I cut the pattern to exactly the size my measurements placed me in on the size chart (a straight size 6), but then made a few alterations to the pattern before cutting out my fabric.

Since the pattern is meant to be quite fitted with side vents, and I was eliminating the side vents, I added a little bit of width to the skirt so that I would still be able to move around with ease.

I did this by simply adjusting the hip curve starting at about the base of the hip, adding width to meet the original seam allowance for the hem vent. It looks like this; notice the extra piece of fabric taped to the right side between the lengthen/shorten line and the hem vent.

I did the same thing for the back pattern pieces, adding in the extra paper, then laying the front piece on top of the back and traced out the new curve. Adding the width was as easy as that!

The next thing to do was to create the front button placket. Disclaimer: I miss-calculated the width I need to add, my center front was off by 1/4", and therefore made my skirt a bit more snug in the front! In the end it all worked out just fine, but as a reference point, I only added 1 1/2" to the center front of the pattern piece and I should have added 1 3/4"!

Since I wanted to keep my original pattern pieces intact as much as possible, I simply folded the fly flush with the center front seam, rather than cutting if off. Then I taped my button placket extension piece to the existing pattern with just a few small pieces of tape to hold it in place.

To create the button placket, *FIRST: INTERFACE the button placket area!!* I forgot to do this before the next step, so I had to press the placket twice, haha. Then fold the raw edge of center front in by 1/4" and press. Next fold it in by 1 1/4" and press. Edge stitch the outer edge and top-stitch at 1 1/8" to catch the edge of the placket.

Now you are done with altering the front pieces! From here, I just assembled as per the pattern.

The other two changes I made to the pattern was to shorten the skirt, and I made a construction change to the waistband.

For the length I determined how long I wanted the skirt to be and cut my front and back panels to that length (taking into consideration the height of the waistband), plus 1" for hem allowance.

The waistband adjustment was a personal preference. The pattern includes a one-piece waistband that is attached to the right side and then folded over and stitched to the wrong side. I do not like one-piece waistband constructions, so I simply cut it in two pieces, adding seam allowances and attached it the way I normally do my waistbands. I follow the method described HERE.

The waistband included in the Danube Skirt is also straight, not curved, which is not usually as much of a problem in high-waisted garments. But for my shape I do prefer a curved waistband, so for my next one, I'll be swapping in a curved two-piece waistband.

I had one little fitting issue while constructing this skirt. I had some strange pulling and excess fabric in the back. I didn't muslin (don't be like me), so I had already top-stitched the yoke and center back seam when I discovered the issue. While the fit is not "perfect", it is good enough for this one with the adjustment I made!

I essentially made the back skirt piece a size smaller from about mid-hip to about 4 inches above the hem. I will reflect this change to the pattern pieces before cutting out another one!

I also scooted the back pockets 1/4" toward the center instead of attaching at the distance suggested by the pattern. This is individual to each person, but that is what worked for me!

I am so pleased with my final skirt! I can't wait to style this so many ways this fall and into the holiday season!

Links: {Affiliate - thank you for supporting me and this blog!💕}

Skirt:

• Danube Skirt Pattern: Itch to Stitch
• Denim: Minerva (color: Indigo)
• Buttons: Amazon

Sweater: Target (unfortunately this color is sold out, dark colors available) (similar) (similar)
Necklace: Target (similar)
Mules: Target (Color: Blush)

Read more »