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Cone Mills Lander Shorts // Sewing For Women

Wednesday, August 8, 2018

Lander Shorts // Sewing For Women

Hello friends!! I am dying with excitement to share these new Lander Shorts with you! I sewed them up from start to finish on Monday (in the middle of a chaotic day), and hammered in the buttons yesterday morning. I wore them most of the day yesterday and am wearing them again today. I'm completely obsessed.

Lander Shorts // Sewing For Women

This is the fourth time I have used the Lander Pant & Short pattern, but the first time I sewed the shorts version.

Each time I sewed them, I was working on tweaking the fit to get it perfect for my personal preferences. YOU GUYS. I NAILED IT. Fourth time is the charm, because these shorts may never leave my body!

As I mentioned above, I sewed these from start to finish in several hours. I had all the pieces cut, but not "prepped", it was just a pile of fabric and interfacing when I started. My sewing machine wasn't even threaded and I didn't have my top-stitching thread picked out yet, ha! I didn't time it exactly, but I would estimate active sewing time was 4-5 hours. As far as pants go, this pattern is a quick sew! And I am not a fast sewist!

Lander Shorts // Sewing For Women

The Landers fit me pretty decently from the start, I was able to test them (the original version is blogged here)and found them to be a very good starting point. I also made them in a stretch twill (blogged here), and a zipper expansion version in rayon/linen (HERE).

Lander Shorts // Sewing For Women

FITTING

The problem I ran into and made me not want to wear them on a regular basis is that the front "C" area was only comfortable when standing. I was told yesterday this is called a vedgie... Lol.

So to fix this problem; in the past, I tried scooping the front and back curve, but that didn't really do much for comfort and only made what appears to be excess fabric at the front more pronounced. The third time around, I lengthened the front and back curves a bit and scooped the front slightly. This was so much better!

In addition to those changes, for the second and third pair, I also shortened the rise from the top by about 3/4".

As you can see, I've been trying hard to get these to fit comfortably, because my love for this design runs deep!

So, now I'll outline exactly what I did to this pair to perfect the fit and finally yield super comfy shorts that I never want to stop wearing!

Starting from the top:
  1. I shortened the rise all around by about 1/2". My method of doing this was to simply cut a size 6 (my size), and cut at the size 2 at the top of the pants. This dropped the waistband overall.
  2. I shortened the front rise an additional 5/8" by taking a wedge out of the center of the fly area. I then had to true up the center front seam.
  3. The final change I made to the waistband was to swap out the included waistband pattern piece for a curved one. I used the Ash Jeans waistband in this case
  4. The changes to the crotch curve were relatively simple. I just lengthened both the front and the back by 3/8". I also scooped out the front curve by about 1/4"
  5. Added 1 inch in length to the inseam.
Shortening the rise helped these fit my body so much more comfortably. Although they don't hit at my true waist, I just find this fit to be much more wearable and I think even more flattering for me personally because my true waist is pretty high on my torso. Well above my belly button.

I also find the curved waist band to be super comfortable. 

I took in the hips ever so slightly, and let the seam at the waistband out just a bit. This is a standard adjustment for me. I think I could take the whole thing in just a smidge, but I'm actually really enjoying the looser fit. Apparently I am all about comfort these days! :)

I've definitely tweaked a bit, but I absolutely love this latest version and I plan to sew up another pair of shorts ASAP with the exact same altered pattern pieces. I will be living in these for the remainder of the summer!

FABRIC

The final "change" I made to the pattern was to choose a very different fabric than my previous versions. I really believe that the reason I love this pair of shorts so much is split 50/50 between the fabric I used and the fit tweaks I made!

Lander Shorts // Sewing For Women

The fabric is 9oz Cone Mills Denim in Olive. I purchased it from Imagine Gnats, and it's still in stock. So run and get you some!!! 

Lander Shorts // Sewing For Women

I cannot believe how much I loved working with and now wearing this fabric! I never thought I would really love wearing a rigid denim, but this stuff is incredible. While it doesn't have any spandex in it at all, it has the tiniest bit of give and with wearing, it relaxes into the most comfortable fit possible.

Lander Shorts // Sewing For Women

And that color!!!! It's the perfect shade of olive. I'm also surprised at how much I have in my wardrobe that pairs perfectly with it! 

The buttons I used are jeans buttons in antique copper. I used THESE from Wawak.

Lander Shorts // Sewing For Women

Lander Shorts // Sewing For Women

Lander Shorts // Sewing For Women

Lander Shorts // Sewing For Women

Lander Shorts // Sewing For Women

So that is all the info on my new fave shorts! I'll also pop in all the links again, down below. And if you have any more questions, leave me a comment, shoot me an email, or DM me on Instagram HERE! I love chatting with you all!

Pattern: Lander Pant & Short


Jeans Buttons: Antique Copper

Tank: Target

Sandals: American Eagle

Linen Jersey Union St Tee + Stretch Twill Chi-Town Chinos // Imagine Gnats Contributor

Tuesday, July 17, 2018

Linen Jersey Union St Tee + Stretch Twill Chi-Town Chinos // Sewing For Women

Hi friends! Today I'm over at Imagine Gnats, sharing all about this amazing new staple outfit I sewed with fabrics from the shop. This Linen Jersey Tee and Chi-Town Chinos with the perfect amount of stretch will be worn constantly!! This is my dream outfit.

Linen Jersey Union St Tee + Stretch Twill Chi-Town Chinos // Sewing For Women


Head over to the post HERE, to read all the details and to see the fabrics in the shop!

Linen Jersey Union St Tee + Stretch Twill Chi-Town Chinos // Sewing For Women

Linen Jersey Union St Tee + Stretch Twill Chi-Town Chinos // Sewing For Women


Pixie Tee Pattern // Sewing For Women

Tuesday, June 26, 2018

Pixie Tee Pattern // Sewing For Women

The Pixie Tee Pattern by Chalk and Notch is here!!

Pixie Tee Pattern // Sewing For Women

I had the opportunity to test this fun pattern, and it's true love. It's a slightly elevated basic pattern with details that are absolute perfection.

Pixie Tee Pattern // Sewing For Women

The pattern comes with several options to mix and match and create a variety of different looks. The options include 2 hem versions; elastic + fabric ties & hem band. 2 hem lengths; tee or dress. 2 sleeve lengths; long or short. Use these options and you can create anything from a summer top to a cozy sweatshirt dress!

Pixie Tee Pattern // Sewing For Women

My personal favorite features are the relaxed fit and the slightly dropped, yet perfectly fitted shoulders. Paired with the elasticated hem and side ties, it is the cutest tee that is elevated casual!

Pixie Tee Pattern // Sewing For Women

I used a rayon spandex for my stripey version, and I can proclaim that the drape this fabric type gives this pattern is perfection. The elastic hem and side ties keeps it from looking too over-sized and brings it back in for the perfectly fitted look.

Pixie Tee Pattern // Sewing For Women

Speaking of those side ties. They are genius. I was actually planning to hack a tee pattern I already owned into this exact top (I already had all the fabric from my stash set aside for it), but Gabriela apparently read my mind and did all the work for me! I had been planning to simply thread woven ties through the hem band, but the addition of elastic is brilliant and works so much better to keep everything in place and looking cute! Not to mention the movement it allows. It makes it super comfy too.

Pixie Tee Pattern // Sewing For Women

Yep. Those are mismatched stripes. Did I mention that working with rayon spandex is not my favorite? I can assure you that in cutting, they were precisely matched, it happened during sewing and the stretch stitch I chose shifted the fabric too much. I could have redone them (except who wants to unpick a machine stretch stitch out of rayon spandex!?), but I was pressed for time because we were headed out of town, and I decided that it's really okay! I do have one trick up my sleeve to get those slinky stripes to match on my next rayon spandex version, I'll report back to let you know if it worked out!

I am a recovering sewing perfectionist, and stripes that don't line up perfectly is one area that I have learned to be okay with. But only if it's not *too* bad. ;) Plus, I'm celebrating those PERFECTLY matched stripes in the shoulder seams!

Pixie Tee Pattern // Sewing For Women

Okay, enough about my personal struggles, let's get back to the pattern! Ha.

Pixie Tee Pattern // Sewing For Women

I have 2 more tee versions already cut out that are waiting to be sewn! I'm so excited to have this pattern in my collection.

Pixie Tee Pattern // Sewing For Women

The next version I'm planning would fit perfectly in to a July 4th (ish) outfit, so I'm planning to sew that up this week. It's an exact duplicate of this version using all the same details.

Pixie Tee Pattern // Sewing For Women

The third version I cut out is the hem band version and I shortened it a bit. I'm excited to see how it turns out! And come cooler weather, I'll be making a few of the cozy long sleeve versions as well.

Pixie Tee Pattern // Sewing For Women

Speaking of shortening. I am 5'3", and I shortened the size 6 pattern 1 inch in the torso. It's perfect! Otherwise, no changes to the fit were made at all, and I don't plan to make any for future versions.

Pixie Tee Pattern // Sewing For Women

That's all I've got! Be sure to check this pattern out in the shop and stay tuned to all the social media outlets for Chalk and Notch for many more versions of this pattern as well as the tester roundup that will be happening soon. There are so many beautiful versions!

Pixie Tee Pattern // Sewing For Women

Pattern: Pixie Tee Pattern by Chalk and Notch
Size Sewn: 6
Modifications: Shortened 1 inch for height. I am 5'3"
Fabric: Rayon Spandex for main and neckband (source?) Tencel (from Joann's) for side ties.

Wide-leg Ash Jeans // Imagine Gnats Contributor

Tuesday, June 12, 2018

Ash Jeans // Sewing For Women

Happy Tuesday everyone!!

I am beyond thrilled to again be showing you a pair of jeans I completed and I'm SO HAPPY with them! I am completely addicted to sewing jeans and shorts. It is so rewarding! The jeans pattern is the Ash Jeans Pattern.

This new pattern by Megan Nielsen is so so good. I highly recommend it and you can read all of the details on the Imagine Gnats blog today, and find out why it's so great!

Click HERE for the post.

Ash Jeans // Sewing For Women

Ash Jeans // Sewing For Women

Ash Jeans // Sewing For Women

Ash Jeans // Sewing For Women

Colfax Midi Dress // Handmade Summer Dress Challenge

Tuesday, May 1, 2018

Colfax Midi Dress // Sewing For Women

Today I'm sharing a Colfax dress that I made a few mods to and am completely in love with. I am happy to be sharing it in conjunction with the #handmadesummerdress challenge. This challenge is hosted on YouTube and Instagram by two lovely ladies; Lisa and Andreanne.


The challenge is simple! All you have to do is repost the above image; make a summer dress and share between now and May 21st; you can share about it on YouTube or Instagram, and be sure to use the hashtag and tag the hosts! You can see there are some amazing sponsors and you can find all the details on the prizes HERE!

And now for the details on my Handmade Summer Dress!

Colfax Midi Dress // Sewing For Women

I made this dress in a linen/rayon blend from Joann's. If you can't tell, I'm sort of in love with that fabric blend, and I've found the stuff they carry at Joann's to be very good quality. I've had this fabric in my stash for quite a while, not knowing what exactly I wanted to make with it, but knowing that it had to be something GOOD, because I loved the print!

I should also mention, it's rare that they carry it in a great print like this, but they usually have an array of solids at my store. So when I see a good print, I snatch it up!

Colfax Midi Dress // Sewing For Women

Well, I finally settled on wanting to make a Colfax dress out of it. But, I can rarely leave well enough alone on patterns and decided to make some mods! I was really wanting a midi dress, so I made it happen.

To do this; I added 5 inches to the skirt length. I added this in, 6 inches above the original hem line. This allowed me to use the existing hem facing without having to redraft anything there.

Colfax Midi Dress // Sewing For Women

The other slight style change I made was to adjust the front armhole scoop to have more coverage. I raised the scoop about 1/2" at the front of the armhole and graded back out to nothing towards the top and also back out to nothing at the side seam. I didn't make any changes at all to the back scoop, so this way the side seams matched up perfectly.

Colfax Midi Dress // Sewing For Women

After making those couple of changes, I sewed the dress together, finished seams and all, and then tried it on. Haha. I don't recommend this if you've skipped the muslin step! Eep. I ended up taking the side seams apart completely and adjusting a couple of things. Because I added so much length to the dress, it made it feel disproportionately wide. I took 1 inch of width off of each side, front and back, so 4 inches total. I took this width out between the bottom of the bust dart and ended it about 2 inches below the pocket.

I also raised the pockets 1 1/2 inches, they were too low for me to comfortably put my hands in them before and also added odd looking fullness below my hips. I actually think I could have raised them a bit higher still.

Colfax Midi Dress // Sewing For Women

Overall, I'm really pleased with my new dress!! This fabric is so amazing to wear and this style is comfortable as well. 

My absolute favorite part of this dress is the arm and neck bindings and the front placket detail. It comes together so smoothly and it's just the most fun detail! I'm scheming all the things that I can hack this placket detail onto!

Colfax Midi Dress // Sewing For Women

I like how this midi-length looks belted too. Plus it looks great paired with a cardi, for an even more dressed up look.

Colfax Midi Dress // Sewing For Women

Colfax Midi Dress // Sewing For Women

Colfax Midi Dress // Sewing For Women

I know this won't be my last Colfax dress! I really want one in the original, above-the-knee length too now!

Back To Basics 2018

Wednesday, April 25, 2018

Back To Basics // Sewing For Women // Hey June Union St Tee // Emerson Shorts

Hi friends!!

I am talking all about some BASICS sewing today, AND there is a GIVEAWAY involved, too!! What a happy hump day it is! *Be sure to read to the end for the giveaway details!*

Mac and Katie (from Sew Altered Style) approached me a while back about participating in this tour, and of course I had to say yes! I have to admit. Sewing basics is kind of one of my favorite things, but not always the things I make time for! Can any of you relate?

There is something so innately satisfying about making something and then repeatedly reaching for it over and over because it's something that;

  • A. You love.
  • B. It's a staple wardrobe piece/builder.
  • C. It's something you made and feel pride in wearing. 
But let's be honest. Sewing basics can seem sort of... boring. I mean, why not just grab a $5 tee at the nearest store and be on your way? Hmm. This can be a tough one! And I will admit, I do on occasion grab those tees! In fact, I just recently grabbed a few such tees. One reason was that I (along with many others) am having a hard time finding that 100% cotton, lightweight t-shirt knit that makes for the perfect slouchy tee. 

The second reason was that I needed a specific tee for a specific reason and simply didn't have time to sew it up. That might sound silly, because tees are super quick sews, but life as a mom sometimes just is what it is and doesn't allow those extra minutes just when we need them!

Another reason this Back To Basics Week (actually the founding reason) is so timely, is that in just 6 days from today, starts the epic sewing-world event... Drum roll please... Me Made May!! Hellllo, that hashtag has been used over 50k times!

This is the third year that I will be participating in Me Made May and I am just so excited for all the camaraderie surrounding it. It's so much fun to see everyone's amazing handmade clothing. 

While Me Made May is super exciting, it can also shine a direct spotlight on the gaps in our handmade wardrobes. So this year, I am getting a little head start and made a few basics that I knew I needed and would see a ton of wear, not just in May, but throughout the upcoming summer.

Back To Basics // Sewing For Women // Hey June Lane Raglan // Emerson Shorts
   
You will not find me in jeans or pretty much pants of any kind in the summer once the heat sets in, so I made a THIRD pair of one of my all time favorite shorts patterns, the Emerson Shorts by True Bias

I really can't say enough good things about this pattern. It's number one appeal for me is the comfort factor. Seriously, it can't get any better for a pair of woven shorts. But comfort isn't what drew me to the pattern initially, it was the design. I love the loose fit in the legs, the pleats and the slant front pockets. It all adds up to style AND comfort, which really can't be beat!

This is my third pair, and I sewed it up in some super lovely tencel denim from Joann Stores. And really, how much more basic does it get than denim!? This pair will be worn to threads, no doubt about it. I have a black pair (you can see here) and a light blue pair, both in rayon/linen that I already live in, and this pair will blend into the rotation seamlessly. 

Back To Basics // Sewing For Women // Hey June Lane Raglan // Emerson Shorts

The only change I made to the pattern this time around was to add 1-1/2" to the hem length. Otherwise I sewed a straight size 6, my current measurements are H-37.25, W-28.5.

Back To Basics // Sewing For Women // Hey June Lane Raglan // Emerson Shorts

Up until about a month ago, I had several white tees in my closet. But the problem was... They weren't that white anymore. Ick. I really didn't even feel that bad getting rid of them because they had lived with me and served me well for 5+ years. It was time to let them go. 

But then I had a white tee emergency and ran to Old Navy and bought, in all honesty, a perfectly good white v-neck tee! But like I said, I just got rid of at least 3 of them, so I'm in the restocking stage with my white tee stash. 

The store-bought version of my white tee is a bit different from this one. The neckband on my Union St. Tee (Newest Version) is wider, the neckline is higher and I added the chest pocket. Also, the hem shape and length are different. This one is customized to me! And I'm super happy not to have the extra hem-length bunching up around my hips on this version.

Back To Basics // Sewing For Women // Hey June Union St Tee // Emerson Shorts

I used white Laguna Jersey for this tee. It is a cotton/spandex blend that I purchased from Imagine Gnats a while back. Unfortunately it is out of stock, but the Dana Modal jerseys are an excellent alternative! I was super worried that the fabric would be too sheer for this shirt, but I'm happy to report, that with a skin-toned bra, it is perfecto. Good thing, because I have a couple more yards of this fabric to make a couple more basic white tees with different details!

Back To Basics // Sewing For Women // Hey June Union St Tee // Emerson Shorts

I went down a size to a size small on this pattern. I am super happy with the fit! The arms are a wee bit snug, so for the next one, I may go up a size in the arm width. 

I also raised the v-neck 1/2" in the center front. You can view how I did this on my saved Instagram Stories, under Tutorials.

Back To Basics // Sewing For Women // Hey June Union St Tee // Emerson Shorts

I find Hey June patterns to be pretty long on my 5'3" frame, so I took 1 inch out of the lengthen/shorten line and 1 inch off at the hemline. I haven't decided yet if this is the perfect length for me or not. For pairing with jeans, I feel like it's just smidge TOO short, so I may leave the 1 inch on the hemline next time.
Back To Basics // Sewing For Women // Hey June Union St Tee // Emerson Shorts

Next up is another Hey June pattern, she's a go-to for basics patterns for sure!

This one is the ever popular Lane Raglan (in the updated version, for those of you who have owned the pattern for years like I have!).

Back To Basics // Sewing For Women // Hey June Lane Raglan // Emerson Shorts


I've made a few of these over the years, but unfortunately, the fabrics I used on the first two, did not hold up and I have since parted with them. I still have one that I wear mostly for yard work, because I'm not a huge fan of the colors I chose to color-block, and also, because it's just too long.

Back To Basics // Sewing For Women // Hey June Lane Raglan // Emerson Shorts

So for this version, I kept it VERY basic. I went with a single fabric, rather than color-blocking and chose a pale peach color that I knew I would want to wear constantly this spring.

Back To Basics // Sewing For Women // Hey June Lane Raglan // Emerson Shorts

I kept with my same pattern changes as the last time I made it. I went down a size to a small on the top, graded to a medium at the hips. This time however, I made some length mods. I took out 1" at the waistline and hemmed it at the band cut line, rather than adding the band.

Back To Basics // Sewing For Women // Hey June Lane Raglan // Emerson Shorts

I used a lightweight french terry, also from Imagine Gnats, and it's the perfect spring top to pair with shorts! The fabric does not have a lot of stretch, so it is pretty close-fitting across the top, but not uncomfortably so. I'm just noting it to myself, because in a jersey with more stretch, this sizing is my perfect choice.

Back To Basics // Sewing For Women // Hey June Lane Raglan // Emerson Shorts

And those are the 3 basic pieces I'm going to be bringing into May with me! This will mix and match with the vast majority of my closet and that makes me super happy...

Now for the GIVEAWAY!!!

I am so super thrilled that I get to give one of you a $25 gift certificate to Imagine Gnats Shop!! You can purchase all three of the patterns I used there, as well as so many amazing fabrics to make them with. To enter, please hop over to my Instagram page HERE, and comment on today's post! I'll mention the giveaway at the top of the post so you'll know you've found the right one.

Now go do something nice for yourself and sew you some basics!!

Be sure to check out the Back To Basics Tour Schedule below as well. Thanks for stopping by!!


April 23 | Creative Counselor
April 24 | Heather Handmade 
April 25 | Handmade Frenzy 
April 26 | Harper + Lu 
April 27 | Sewing by Ti

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