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Liana Jeans & Montana Shirt // Itch to Stitch - Make It, Wear It

Monday, July 8, 2019

Liana Jeans & Montana Shirt // Sewing For Women

Happy Monday friends!!

Today, I am over at Itch To Stitch, sharing all about my newest outfit, made up completely of ITS patterns!

Liana Jeans & Montana Shirt // Sewing For Women

*This post contains affiliate links for Itch To Stitch. If you decide to shop through these links, I make a small commission which helps keep this blog running! The fabric for this post was sponsored, the patterns come from my stash, which I had purchased previously to this invitation. All opinions are 100% my own.*

Liana Jeans & Montana Shirt // Sewing For Women

I am loving my newest pair of jeans, the Liana Jeans, they are SUPER comfy with basically no mods at all! You can read all about the details HERE. I used Cone Mills S-Gene denim from Raspberry Creek, who was kind enough to sponsor the fabric for this project. I'm so happy with the outcome, my jeans are truly, SO comfortable!

The biggest adjustment I made on this pair of jeans was to slim down the straight leg, which you can read more about on my blog post today at Itch To Stitch.

Liana Jeans & Montana Shirt // Sewing For Women

For the top, I decided to sew the Montana Shirt. I had been wanting to sew this shirt since it released, and I'm so happy I finally made it! I did make a few changes to the pattern to get this look, and I've got it all detailed out in the blog post over at Itch To Stitch!

Liana Jeans & Montana Shirt // Sewing For Women

The fabric for the shirt was also sponsored, I am so grateful to the shops who help out so generously! This gorgeous cotton eyelet is from Sly Fox Fabrics, and their color selection of eyelet fabric is simply gorgeous!

Liana Jeans & Montana Shirt // Sewing For Women

I was inspired to make this shirt based on this Pinterest image I found. #sewrtystyle is still one of my favorite ways to sew! I did make it with short sleeves rather than long, because *SUMMER* means it's just too hot for button up shirts with long sleeves!

Liana Jeans & Montana Shirt // Sewing For Women

I do wish the weather wasn't quite so sweltering at the moment so that I can wear this outfit all the time! Haha, I truly am enjoying our hot summer weather to the max, so I'm just happy that this outfit will be waiting for me in the fall! I know I will be wearing it constantly!

Liana Jeans & Montana Shirt // Sewing For Women

The next time I sew up these patterns, I do plan to make a few tweaks, but really only slight tweaks. I plan to raise the rise of the jeans by 1/4" - 3/8". And for the shirt, I will add more buttons to the placket. The pattern only includes 5 buttons, and I will probably add two more, while keeping things evenly spaced.

Liana Jeans & Montana Shirt // Sewing For Women

Thanks so much for stopping by! I truly do love these both of these patterns! The fit and the instructions are both superb. I love that ITS patterns includes individual cup sizing for the tops. It makes getting the perfect fit a breeze!

Liana Jeans & Montana Shirt // Sewing For Women

Liana Jeans & Montana Shirt // Sewing For Women

Have a wonderful week, my friends!

Festive Summer Eucalpyt Tank & Peplum Tank // Sewing For Women

Wednesday, July 3, 2019

Free Peplum Tank // Sewing For Women

Happy Wednesday friends!!

Megan Nielsen Eucalypt Tank // Sewing For Women

I have red, white, and blue on my mind today since tomorrow is Independence Day! Do you like to go all out with the festive clothes, or do you like to keep it a bit more subtle?

Free Peplum Tank // Sewing For Women

I'm in the second camp. I like to wear normal everyday clothes, but that pull in just a bit of the festive color scheme for the holiday.

Today I'm showing you two fairly recent makes that I haven't blogged yet, but that would be perfect for me to wear to the fireworks show tonight and for the actual holiday tomorrow!

Free Peplum Tank // Sewing For Women

First is another free peplum top, pattern is by In The Folds for Peppermint Magazine. I blogged all about this top HERE, so I won't go into too much detail, but this pattern is one of my absolute favorites this summer!

Free Peplum Tank // Sewing For Women

It is SUPER lightweight, and the peplum really makes it breezy. I really can't feel it touching my skin at all! Which, when it is 96 degrees and super humid outside, I really appreciate that!

Free Peplum Tank // Sewing For Women

The cute v-shaped back neckline is one of my very favorite features about this pattern. Love!

Next up is another Eucalypt Tank, pattern by Megan Nielsen. I made my first version of this tank in a knit, you can read all about that HERE. This second version is made in a lightweight cotton blend from Joann's that I bought years ago.

Megan Nielsen Eucalypt Tank // Sewing For Women

I love the print of this fabric! It is just the right amount of festive for me!

Megan Nielsen Eucalypt Tank // Sewing For Women

This pattern is designed with no ease in the bust, so I cut my pattern in between a size 8 and a size 10. My measurements put me exactly in a size 8. This trick worked really well, I am really happy with the fit of this tank!

Megan Nielsen Eucalypt Tank // Sewing For Women

It definitely has a different look than my knit version I made previously. I love the thinner straps on this version, and the curved hem is more pronounced as well.

Megan Nielsen Eucalypt Tank // Sewing For Women

I love wearing this tank over shorts like I've styled it here, but my favorite way to wear it is tucked into a skirt or high waisted pants or shorts.

Megan Nielsen Eucalypt Tank // Sewing For Women

Do you have any regular clothes that you could pair up to make a festive Fourth outfit? I bet you do! You don't even have to have all the colors at play, try pairing stripes with a solid or floral!

Megan Nielsen Eucalypt Tank // Sewing For Women

And have a fun and safe holiday!

**Both tank fabrics were purchased from Joann's. White shorts are Chi-Town Chinos, blogged HERE.

Medina Linen Blend Blackwood Cardigan // Imagine Gnats Contributor

Thursday, June 27, 2019

Medina Linen Blend Blackwood Cardigan // Sewing For Women

Hi friends! I'm hanging out over at Imagine Gnats today, sharing all about my new summery, floaty, feminine, Blackwood Cardigan!

Medina Linen Blend Blackwood Cardigan // Sewing For Women

I am absolutely in love with this fabric, the lace detail, and the pattern hacking of this cardigan!

Head over to the Imagine Gnats blog to read all about it by clicking HERE!

Medina Linen Blend Blackwood Cardigan // Sewing For Women

Medina Linen Blend Blackwood Cardigan // Sewing For Women

Medina Linen Blend Blackwood Cardigan // Sewing For Women

Medina Linen Blend Blackwood Cardigan // Sewing For Women

Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress // Sewing For Women

Tuesday, June 25, 2019

Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress // Sewing For Women

**Just a little housekeeping. I realize that my text color scheme makes it hard to see which text is hyper-linked (unfortunately, it is a purchased blog scheme and I cannot change it), but be aware that they are there and in numerous places throughout my posts, so keep an eye out! ;)**

In my last post, I talked about how much I love pattern testing for motivation purposes, well I love pattern tours just as much for the same reason!

Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress // Sewing For Women

Today I am absolutely thrilled to be part of the #madriddresstour. The Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress is designed by my friend, the owner of Coffee + Thread, Olga. Her patterns always have such great clean lines, and loads of options included. This dress was no different, and I was so excited to dive in!

The pattern includes 2 sleeve options, and comes in tunic length, plus a midi or maxi dress length. As you can see, I decided to go in between and create a swishy, above the knee length, dress!

Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress // Sewing For Women

The Fabric


Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress // Sewing For Women

When I was brainstorming how I wanted my Madrid Dress to look, all I kept seeing in my mind was a fun and bold tropical print. So I went hunting for the perfect fabric! I honestly found many options that would have been amazing, but in the end I settled on this lovely rayon/linen blend that I found on the Joann's website. I know this fabric is carried in-store, but my store didn't have it, so I ordered it online.

Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress // Sewing For Women

When my fabric arrived, I could not wait to get started! The weight of the fabric felt just perfect and the print was everything I had wanted. I did get a question about the sheerness of the fabric when I posted a sneak peek on Instagram, and I'm happy to report that the fabric is perfectly opaque on the body. There was no need for a lining at all! And no slip either. It's really good, y'all!

Fitting

Sewing this dress was truly a fantastic experience! Since the top is a wrap style, I knew I could not get away without making a muslin. In my experience with wrap style tops or dresses, I always have some gaping and/or drooping in the front. So a muslin was absolutely necessary.

Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress // Sewing For Women

My full bust and waist measurements put me in a straight size 8. So I made a quick muslin in similar fabric using only the front and back bodice pieces. As I suspected, I had a lot of gaping going on in the cross-over area. Since I was fresh off of sewing my Ashton Top and had to shorten the area between my bust and shoulders, I decided to test out my growing suspicion that this is indeed an adjustment I need to start making on the regular!

On my muslin, I took up the shoulder seams 1/2" and this placed my darts in the perfect spot as well as lessened the gaping in the front. I reflected this adjustment on the pattern piece by slicing the pattern above the bust and shortening 1/2"

Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress // Sewing For Women

Even after this adjustment, I still had some gaping, so I did a SBA trick that I learned in sewing the Orchid Midi Dress (blogged HERE).

This adjustment is as easy as removing a wedge from the front bodice, starting at the tip of the cross-over (at the waist), and in the case of this dress, I only tapered to the vertical bodice dart. I removed another 1/2" this way and it significantly reduced the gaping in my final dress!

This fabric has a looser weave than my muslin fabric did, and I could have probably removed at least another 1/4" with the wedge, but I'm pleased with the outcome as it is!

Pattern/Style Alterations

Obviously, my dress is not the midi or the maxi length included in the pattern options. I wanted a dress that hit above my knee, I'm crushing on the knee-length tiered skirts I've been seeing everywhere. To achieve the look I was after, I simply shortened the second skirt tier! It could not have been easier.

Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress // Sewing For Women

I held the pattern pieces up to my body, and by eye-balling I decided to remove 6 5/8" from the length. I am 5'3", and I'm super happy with how the length turned out!

Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress // Sewing For Women

The second modification I made to the pattern was to add POCKETS!!! This dress is a fabulous design, but it was screaming for some pockets. Any dress that has pockets is instantly 10x better, am I right???

Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress // Sewing For Women

I can understand why the pattern doesn't include them since the dress has a side-seam zipper to help with getting it on and off. However, I was determined, even though I had never sewn an invisible side-seam zipper AND in-seam pockets on a garment before!

I went to my good pal, Google, and was thrilled to be directed to the ever inspiring and amazing Brittany J. Jones!! She has a YouTube sew-along video in which she sews a skirt with this exact pattern feature! You can reference the video HERE.

Her step-by-step sew-along was exactly what I needed in order to be able to add it to this dress! I just used a pocket pattern piece from my stash that felt like an appropriate size and shape for the dress.

Can I just say that I am IMMENSELY proud with the outcome! Lol. I mean, just check out that side seam! Can you see the zipper? The pocket? No? Yay, that makes me happy!! :)

Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress // Sewing For Women

The Pattern

Other than my truly slight modifications to the design, I stuck directly to the pattern and I am so in love with my new dress!! I feel like pictures don't do it justice, and I basically feel like a princess in the way my 10-year old self would have loved to feel. :)

Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress // Sewing For Women

I attribute this mainly to the flutter sleeves on this dress!! Oh my goodness, they are perfection. The length is perfect, the fullness of the flutter is perfect, and they are just so flattering.

Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress // Sewing For Women

I also am really, really happy with the wrap and how high up it comes. The facing piece is perfect in that it doesn't roll out at all, and gives just the right amount of stability to the front. I found the waist to hit at the perfect spot, and the gathering in the skirt is just enough, but not too much!

Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress // Sewing For Women

All in all, I really couldn't be happier with this new dress of mine!!

I hope you take some time and check out the #madriddresstour on Instagram, there are so many other gorgeous Madrid Dresses there!


For the duration of the tour, Olga is offering 25% off ALL of her patterns, including children's! Just use the code "madridtour" at check out for your discount! Shop all the patterns HERE.

Links:


Pattern: Coffee and Thread Madrid Dress

Step-by-step video for sewing in-seam pockets with a side-seam zipper: Brittany J Jones

Ashton Top // Sewing For Women

Saturday, June 22, 2019

Ashton Top // Sewing For Women

Hi friends!

I'm sharing my tester version of the Ashton Top, one of the two new patterns just released by Helen's Closet!

Pattern testing, especially for my favorite designers, is one of my VERY favorite things to do! I love to be able to be a part of the process in creating a pattern.

Ashton Top // Sewing For Women

I can seriously credit pattern testing with teaching me many valuable sewing skills, especially when I was first starting!

What I love the most about it is that it often pushes me out of my comfort zone and motivates me to try new styles, or to try sewing garments that I would otherwise just keep pushing to back of my queue because of time involved, or depth of skills required.

Basically it just keeps me motivated! :) And it pushes me. If you know of the four tendencies described by Gretchen Rubin, I am an obliger. Which can basically be boiled down to one detail, and that is that I perform best with external motivators. Which is exactly what pattern tests are! Lol.

Now that I've dove way down deep into that rabbit hole, lets move on and talk about the pattern, shall we!?

Ashton Top // Sewing For Women

The Ashton Top is a sleeveless A-line shell that comes in two length options; hip or high-waisted crop.

I chose the cropped view, mainly because I knew it would be the perfect scrap buster for this linen fabric I had laying around, begging to be transformed from scrap to crop-top! I had less than a yard to work with and had no big problem getting this top from it! I did cut the facing in two pieces rather than on the fold, but that was the only minor "fudging" I had to do to make it work. So get out those scraps for this one!!

Ashton Top // Sewing For Women

Helen does such an incredible job with her instructions, and this pattern is the absolute perfect beginner friendly project! She includes two options for finishing the neckline and armholes; the options are a bias finish or an all-in-one facing. I chose to do the facing, and I love how that turned out! The facing is generous, so there is no concern about it flipping out at all while wearing it.

Ashton Top // Sewing For Women

For this tester version, I ended up taking my shoulder seams up by 2 inches total. That is a pretty big adjustment, but I am also a bit shorter through the upper bust area. Since testing, the pattern has been shortened in the shoulder, and the armhole has been raised and brought in a bit.

Ashton Top // Sewing For Women

For my next version, I will start out by taking 1/2" out of the upper bust area (a lengthen/shorten line has been included here), I will also raise the dart, maybe 1", because by taking up the shoulder seam 2" on this version, the dart is now where it should be. I will also be adding in at least 1" in length to the next cropped version, just for my own comfort. Most of my higher rise pants fit just below my bellybutton, and I'm just not a fan of showing my mid-riff at this stage of my life. ;)

That being said, I will definitely wear this top as is, I will probably just wear a cami tucked in underneath most of the time, although with this pair of pants, I don't have to worry much! Maybe I just need to make some more high-waisted pants and shorts.... Hmm... :)

Ashton Top // Sewing For Women

 I can't wait to sew up several more Ashton Tops with some of my (way too many) 1 yard pieces hanging out in my stash!

Ashton Top // Sewing For Women
 
Ashton Top // Sewing For Women


Ashton Top // Sewing For Women

I hope you are all having a wonderful weekend!!  ~Heidi

Pants are Lander Pants, blogged HERE.
The linen fabric I used for the top is leftover from this jumsuit, blogged HERE.

*Disclosure: I was given a copy of the final pattern in exchange for testing. All opinions expressed are my own, all materials were my own resources.
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