Hampshire Trousers // Sewing For Women
Yep. That's right.
I MADE PANTS!!!
And that is the first and last time you will see me do a jump pose. But I felt like the sewing level unlocked with this project deserved it. Unflattering as it may be!
Let's move on. Truth is, the fact that I sewed pants for myself makes me feel just a little bit sassy! Lol.
Hmm. Having a hard time getting this post rolling! So let's just dive in and get started on the sewing chat.
Somehow I thought dipping my toes into the pants-sewing-waters would be less intimidating if I tried something other than jeans. I first got the Birkin Flares pattern and procrastinated and procrastinated. Then Cali Faye released the Hampshire Trousers and I got a little bit more courageous about making pants. It still took a little while, but I finally purchased the pattern and then acquired some fabric for my first attempt.
I still wasn't really sure what I was doing and then I stumbled across this pin and the mud cleared just a little. That series of posts was super helpful and gave me hope that maybe, just maybe, I could do this!
So finally, with the pattern (which also has a SUPER helpful alterations guide included!!), the above information and the alterations guide (it helped me decide to purchase the pattern, if that's any help to anyone) I decided to jump right on in. Well, first I made a really quick and really dirty muslin. Really.
The muslin "fit". As in I could pull it up over my hips and it wasn't too tight in the thighs or butt. HA! Obviously, I'm a "jump in with both feet in order to learn" kind of student.
Another thing that I did, that I honestly wouldn't recommend, is that I used a stretch fabric for the first try. I thought that way if there were any "too tight" fit issues, it would still maybe be a wearable muslin for around the house. Just being brutally honest here. All experienced sewists who know their stuff, feel free to avert your eyes at all my blunders. Lol.
All that said, I did think I had a pretty good chance at getting a pair of pants that fit me, based on the measurements the pattern is based off of. I was a pretty exact candidate for the size S. And while I'm not as slim as the pattern model, I thought proportionately we looked similar.
As to the technical things that I did do... I first cut out the straight size S, with no changes at all. Sewed up the front and back and then basted the side seams and inseam. Turns out the pattern's crotch length was definitely too long for me. So with the alterations guide and the posts I referenced, I unpicked the front crotch seam and shortened the crotch length by 1 inch. This fixed a lot of issues!
For my next go at this pattern, I will take an inch out of the crotch depth as well. While it's not terrible or uncomfortable, I think the rise is still too high for me. I've already made the changes to the pattern pieces and I plan to use a non-stretch fabric for that version. Oh, and I've already made my muslin and things are looking good. Like really good!
To accommodate my stretch sateen fabric that I used, I basically just used larger seam allowances on the outside and inside seams. I shortened the waistband by using a 3/8" larger SA, the hips and inner thighs were narrowed by quite a bit more than that. I can't remember exactly how much, but I kept basting by 1/4" - 3/8" increments until I got the look and feel that I wanted. I'd like to get a pattern altered just the way I want it for a stretch fabric and one for a rigid fabric. I think for the stretch version, I could size down one size and be pretty close to what I need.
Let me gush a little bit about the sewing techniques in this pattern! I mean look at that flat fly! I haven't sewn all that many fly's in my sewing experience, but I can tell you that none of them have looked this good to date! And yes, I do realize the edge of the waistband is not a straight line. Doh.
It's so prEETTTY!
There are picture sew-along tutorials on the Cali Faye blog for both the welt pockets and zipper fly. SO extremely helpful! I'm sure my first attempts at this pattern would not look this good if I hadn't had those to look at while sewing.
I did change the way the waistband is constructed a bit. I may not have sewn the Birkins yet, but I have read the pattern! ;) Feast your eyes on the clean looking waistband! And you know I have to sneak stripes in wherever I can.
I have all the heart eyes for my new pants. I LOVE trousers. At home, I definitely prefer them over jeans, because they are just so comfy, and a level (or 3) above sweats. But during the summer, especially, I wear trousers for going out a lot, because they are also cooler than jeans.
Have no fear, this pattern will be hacked into shorts and my closet will be filled with them for the purpose of summer heat survival!
If you are wondering at all about my top combo, stay tuned, because I will be writing about those shortly!
Thank you so much for stopping by!
Have you made pants yet, or are you thinking about attempting it? I'd love to hear your thoughts in the comments!
Pattern used: Hampshire Trousers by Cali Faye Collection
**The links to Cali Faye in this post are affiliate links. I truly think this is one fabulous pattern and am super excited about using it to sew staple pieces for my wardrobe!
Fabric: Stretch Cotton Sateen from Joann's, it was an amazing find in the red tag section. I paid $5 for
a 2 yard piece! Pocket linings: shirting fabric, also from Joann's.
Zipper: Zipit Etsy Shop
Thread and button: Joann's
Size sewn: S, but adjusted greatly to accommodate the stretch fabric.