Crew Trousers // Sewing For Women
Happy Thursday, friends!
I'm so excited to share with you my brand new Crew Trousers!! This is the latest pattern by Chalk & Notch, just released this week. The pattern is on sale through Tuesday, 10/15, no code needed!
The pattern comes in two variations, a tapered trouser length, and a loose fitting short.
Features of the pattern include:
- Front pleats
- Back Darts
- Optional belt-loops and waist tie
- Front Slant Pockets
- Side Lapped Zipper with waistband closure; choose between hook & eye and buttons
- Lengthen and Shorten lines included on the pattern in several places
The instructions for this pattern are exceptional, like we know from all of Gabriela's patterns. Her interactive pdf is great for jumping from section to section if you need to find something specific in the instructions. She has also created a few very helpful videos for some of the trickier steps in the construction, such as the lapped zipper, but I have to say, the written instructions and illustrations are wonderful as well!
She also has a very helpful fitting post on her blog HERE.
I was privileged to be one of the testers for this pattern, but even if I wasn't testing I would have taken the time to muslin a pattern like this. I'm so, SO glad I muslined it first.
According to the size chart I am a size 6 hip, and 8 waist. So for my muslin, I graded between the two sizes, and kept the length as is so I could determine exactly how much length I needed to remove.
The muslin fit very well from the beginning. The hips fit well, and the waist fit well, but I discovered I needed a little bit more room in the high hip area just below my waist. I also needed to remove 1/2" of length from the front rise, but not the back. This is typical for me.
I also needed to remove 1 1/2" in length from the legs to get the hem to hit me at the intended length, which is cropped just above the ankle.
I'm so glad I have this data from my muslin, because when I made it up in my fashion fabric, it ended a completely different size!
I used the most delicious Caramel Silky Viscose/Linen Noil from Imagine Gnats. I purchased this fabric with this exact style of pants in mind, and in the end it is exactly what I was hoping for!
However, this fabric grows exponentially when sewing it into a pair of pants! Even with all of my adjustments to my pattern before cutting, I ended up taking in the hips, and removing a HUGE amount of length from the crotch. It was so low, it was comical. For some reason I didn't take any pictures at that stage, but I really wish I would have!
After these photos, I actually decided to remove another 1/2" from the crotch and I also took in each leg 1/2" through the inseam all the way down to the hem. Like I said, this fabric grew and grew! I even washed them in the washer and dryer just to make sure it wouldn't shrink and that I wasn't removing too much.
Even after removing all of that length from the crotch, the hem still ended up being too long. So rather than cutting off from the bottom of the pant, I decided to hem and then cuff.
Y'all. This is a hack I was planning to make on a future version, but I've gotta say. I'm so happy it worked out with this pair, because it's one of my favorite details!! Next time I will construct it a bit differently, but this is the overall look I was after, and I love it.
But I've gotta say, all of the details on this pair of pants are pretty great!! I mean, just look at that lapped zipper and tiny buttons on the waistband! Swoon.
But I've gotta say, all of the details on this pair of pants are pretty great!! I mean, just look at that lapped zipper and tiny buttons on the waistband! Swoon.
So as I'm sure you can tell. I'm over the moon about my Crew Trousers. This style of pants is new to me, but I can't wait to wear them all fall! I've got so many ideas of ways I want to style them. And you can't beat the comfort.
You may be asking based on my thoughts above, would you make them again in this fabric? The answer is YES. I'm absolutely thrilled with the outcome. That COLOR. 😍 Next time though, I would definitely size down my pattern before cutting into it. The waistband even turned out a little large, even though I had block fused my interfacing to it before cutting. It just grew. The waist tie helps with keeping it in place, but I would size down at least one size for the whole pattern if I used this fabric again.
I hope these tips are all helpful, and be sure to check out the Chalk & Notch blog for more fitting tips and inspiration!
That is the peeerrffffect warm shade of brown. I've been seeing tester versions of these pants pop up all over the blogs and these are my favorite so far! I like seeing them in something a little more substantial than rayon.
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